Thursday, October 20, 2011

The ABCD of Berlin – Alcatraz, Birthday’s, Cured Ham and Dickmann’s


We made it safely from the Czech Republic to Germany with only one minor mishap. Let’s just say, Franklin learned the hard way that standing up too quickly causes the weight-distribution of the shell to shift at a speed which makes it impossible to right oneself. Obviously, I couldn’t see myself, but judging from what I could see – namely the reactions of everyone around me – I was quite the spectacle flailing around on the dirty train station floor. I couldn’t even curl up into the foetal position and cry because I literally couldn’t roll over from my back onto my side. Kaitlyn tried in vain to hoist me up, but all she could do was spin me around on my shell like a recently-Mortined fly. I think she quite enjoyed that. Eventually, she had to unclip me from the confines of the bag so I could shimmy out and up, and hoist that mother back onto me.

Berlin was the first destination on our travels which I had not before visited, and I was uber-excited: firstly, because my friend Ricky is living there, and he was going to show us the "local’s Berlin", and secondly, because I have always had a fascination with Germany, in particular, with Berlin. I think this fascination is twofold: the first being a somewhat morbid curiosity with World War II, and the second being a childhood obsession with The Chipmunks, specifically the episode where Alvin, Simon and Theodore make the wall fall down by "rocking out" next to it. Classic.






It was excellent arriving at the train station and seeing Ricky, because I was excited to see him, but especially because he carried my shell for me. Ricky is living in an area of Berlin called Prenzlauer Berg, and we were staying at a hostel about twenty metres from his front door – the aptly named Alcatraz Hostel. I say aptly named because, for the majority of the time we spent there, I felt as if I was residing in a prison. And not a fun Chicago-style prison where Richard Gere comes in, dresses you in sequins and belts out a few catchy duets. Getting in and out of bed each morning involved an act of contortion more than worthy of Australia’s Got Talent; if I slept on my side I woke up with a body-length branding of bruised flesh, but if I slept on my back, I ended up with splinters in my nose – and I threw out my box of those ridiculous pore-cleansing strips in the late 1990s, so those wood chips would have been crossing the Channel with me. And I’ve blown my nose on tissues thicker than my “pillow”. However, I have since stayed at some phenomenally worse hostels, so I do look back on Alcatraz with some fond memories. And I am saying that without a trace of irony. Honestly.

After unpacking and escaping the wardens, we got a tour of the local ‘hood. Prenzlauer Berg is a kind of arty, indie area – an American Apparel and two-dozen Fixies away from being OTT hipster. So kind of awesome and completely my scene. It was this night I discovered what were perhaps my three favourite things about Berlin: The Kaiser, 60 cent beers, and Viet. When I say Kaiser, I am referring to Berlin’s uber-awesome supermarket – 24 hour supermarket. However, to avoid confusion, I shall henceforth refer to it as the “Weezer”, as this is what Kaitlyn called it. We don’t know why. Neither does she. When I grow up, I am going to live right next door to a 24 hour supermarket; that way I won’t even need to be married to Isaac Brock to be happy…although I will be married to him, so it’s a moot point. I would also like this supermarket to be a Weezer because, although I don’t recall having ever shopped in a 24 hour supermarket sober before, I doubt any could be as cheap or would stock such amazing things – but more on this later.

60 cents isn’t much in Australia, but in Berlin it can buy you 500mL of beer. And not even bad beer. (Although I did have one of those in Berlin too – a mango-flavoured beer. Seeing that written down, I have no idea what led me to believe it would be palatable, let alone enjoyable. It was absolutely vile. I wouldn’t even clean a urinal with it.) It turns out that, after travelling all day and having an empty stomach, I only need €1.20 to lose my inhibitions and become a total ping-pong pro. #Winning. Ping-pong is a popular pastime in Berlin, with tables lining the streets the way bogans line them at home. There is no more enjoyable a way to pass a balmy afternoon in the city than with a couple of beers and some pong. And there is no better way to spend the ensuing evening than with some tasty Viet.









In Berlin, €4.90 can buy you 8.1 beers. It can also buy you one of the best Goddamn meals of your life…if you like Vietnamese cuisine. Although I am a carb-whore, even I need protein from time to time. The tofu and vegetable wanton soup I had that night did things to my body only illicit thoughts of Isaac Brock have managed to do before. And if Kaitlyn’s facial expressions were anything to go by, her curry did things to her body only fantasies of Christian Bale have done before. That meal was one of the best meals I have ever had. And I still had enough change from a tenner to buy 8.5 beers. #EpicWinning.
                             
The next morning I discovered that the literal theme of Alcatraz extended from the bedroom to the bathroom, as one had to cross a vast expanse of water to reach it. The shower blocks were an island unto themselves, surrounded by a quantity of water similar in volume to San Francisco Bay. Without my snorkel it was tough-going. There was a mop and bucket in the corner of the room. However, unless Hermione Granger had magically expanded the bucket’s interior, it wasn’t going to do shit. Continuing with the theme, there was about as much privacy in the showers as I expect there would be in a prison shower block. The showers had doors, but they were glass – TRANSPARENT GLASS. And it appeared to be the only element of the bathroom they religiously cleaned (or, arguably, cleaned at all) as they sparkled like a damn Swarovski crystal. There were two strategically placed frosted strips on each door…strategically placed in the shittest positions possible at the very top and very bottom of the panel. Advice From an Objective Foreigner: I realise that Europeans are supposedly far less modest about their bodies and sexuality than we are, so I’ll give you a head’s up – when we attempt to preserve our modesty, the body parts we primarily attempt to cover-up are NOT our foreheads and ankles. 






On the day we decided to do the free walking tour of Berlin, it absolutely poured. Fortunately, the day before I had visited “First Class Second Hand” – the sweetest second-hand clothes store I have ever been to - and found myself a jacket from the Kinder section. So although I couldn’t take photos for the first hour of the tour, I was warm and toasty, if a little soggy. The walking tour was fascinating although, when we first rocked up, I nearly turned back around because as well as being put-off by the rain, I was put-off by the obnoxious Australian guy organising the tour. We asked him if this was where we met for the tour, and from the reaction we got, you’d have thought we’d asked him for a kidney. I never cease to wonder why such surly, rude people constantly choose jobs which obviously involve working with people. In a stroke of luck, we didn’t get stuck with him as our tour guide, but a British guy called David. At first he kind of reminded me a bit of those ADHD children on Today Tonight, as he bounded around us and rapidly spewed out information about each site we passed. But at least he didn’t look pained to be spending time with us.

We heard about and saw some fairly disturbing things on the tour including a recreation of the Death Strip at the Wall, the location of Hitler’s Bunker, and the only remaining building of the Third Reich on which remains bullet holes and the imprint of swastikas. However, the two most distressing things were not remnants of Germany’s sordid past, but British and American things of the present. The first was the somewhat larger girl wearing the jeans-leggings. Let's break this down: those of us with acceptable levels of taste and human decency know that leggings should never be worn as pants unless you’re at the gym –and even then, one should have been religiously attending the gym for a minimum of six months prior to forgoing the baggier track-pant; if one is going to insist on wearing leggings as pants, they must be black, as black is the most slimming colour; the best denim has lyrca IN it, it is not MADE from lycra; putting fake stitching on material is ridiculously pointless; skinny jeans are flattering on skinny people – and jeggings are not the ultimate in skinny jeans – THEY’RE FREAKING LEGGINGS; and if your rear-end makes Serena Williams’ look like Kate Moss’, you should maybe be cutting down on carbs, and you should definitely NOT be wearing "jeggings" in PUBLIC.

The second alarming thing we had to witness on the tour was the painful, awkward flirting of our tour leader, David, and his not-so-secret American admirer, Ginger. Continuing in the tradition of nick-naming people whose names we don’t bother to learn, Ginger had red hair. She also had the most annoying voice I have EVER heard. Remember Janice from Friends? Comparatively, Janice has the dulcet tones of Morgan Freeman. Ginger took an immediate shining to David, beginning her flirt-fest within the first five minutes of the tour, interrupting his explanation of the Brandenburg Gate to ask, ‘Sooooo….Dayyyyyvid, how long have you beeeeen doooooooing this?’ She was batting her lashes at him so ferociously she must have had bruises underneath her eyes. My inner-ear canal definitely had some. I really didn’t see the appeal. But I guess if short, scrawny, greasy-haired guys were my thing, I’d have been fighting that mole off.

To begin with, Daaaaayyyyyyyyyvvvviiid seemed to spurn each of her horrible advances. ‘Whaaat dooooooo you get up to in your sppaaaaarrreee tiiiiiiimmmmme, Daaaaayyyyyyvid?’ ‘Where’s your faaaaaavourite place to eaaaaaat, Daaaaayyyyyvvvid?’ ‘Wheeerrrreee abouts do you liiiiiivvvveeee, Daaaayyyyyvvvvviiiiiiddddd?’ ‘Caaan I have your chiiiiiiildrennnnn, Daaaaayyyyyyvvviiiid?’ HE KNOWS HIS NAME IS DAVID. THERE’S NO CONFUSION AS TO WHO YOU ARE ADDRESSING BECAUSE YOU ARE HUMPING HIS LEG - YOU DON’T NEED TO SAY HIS NAME EVERY TIME. Eventually, however, Daaaayyyyvvvvviiiiddd must have decided he quite enjoyed having a ranga rubbing up against him, because the flirting was reciprocated. Unfortunately, it didn’t improve. The most awkward moment came when we arrived at the Opera House, and he offered a prize for the first person to correctly guess what happens there. At least ten people said ‘Opera’ before Ginger, but he literally waited for her delayed-reaction and piercing screech of ‘OOOOOOOHHPPPPPRAAAAAAARRRRRR’ before declaring her the winner. And guess what the prize was? A hug!!!! She tried to pretend she was flushed from embarrassment, but she was clearly flushed from arousal. I fully expected her to pull a fan out of her hideous VENEZIA canvas bag and start fanning herself. Although she might have….I was too busy vomiting in the gutter.

At the end of the tour, Daaaayyyyyyvvvviiiiiddd managed to shake Ginger off long enough to sit us all down on some steps like school children, so he could tell his final story in a flourish of wit and humour in the hopes of winning us all over and scoring himself more tips in the process. From the laughter around us, we gather he actually did a fairly decent job explaining how the Wall fell down, but the three of us didn’t catch a word, as our attention was solely fixated on a sign behind him: sexyberlinevents.de – everyday from the Holocaust Memorial. Because there isn’t anything sexier than the Holocaust... The sign itself was disturbing – although I admit the image of the Brandenburg Gate made to look like a “sexy” woman was amusing. However, our morbid curiosity led us to investigate further, and we eventually hit-up sexyberlinevents.de. And it was pretty funny – in a completely
ridiculous sense. There were a multitude of things on offer, essentially basic Berlin tours, with “sexy” added into the title; Sexy Berlin Wall Tours, Sexy Communist Berlin, etc. My personal favourite was the “Sexy Airport Transfers”. As you can probably imagine, we proceeded to ensure everything we did in Berlin from then on was Sexy.











The next day was Kaitlyn’s Sexy Birthday. We started the morning off at the Weezer, selecting items for a Sexy Birthday Breakast. I’m fairly certain we ended up with a subtly Sexy Breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and bread. However, during our leisurely peruse of the aisles, we happened across some amazing products on the Weezer’s shelves. Amongst my faves were the chocolates shaped like kittens' tails, in a box with kittens all over the front. However, the prize for best item undoubtedly went to Super Dickmann’s. The only thing we could ascertain from the cake-sized box in which they were enclosed, was that they were chocolate-coated somethings in the shape of...well, male reproductive organs…admittedly, odd-looking ones, but they were definitely phallic in nature. Obviously, we instantly knew we had to get some before we left the city – if anything screams "Sexy Berlin", it’s a Super Dickmann. 








After breakfast, we embarked on our own Sexy Wall Tour, taking in the outdoor Wall museum which runs along a half-preserved section of the former Wall. Turns out graphitised parts of the Wall are a great Sexy prop, as we took some supremely Sexy photos that afternoon. We did also spend a great deal of time reading the exhibits, but after a few hours of such heavy, powerful material, we needed a bit of light, Sexy relief. And after our intense, Sexy Photoshoot, we needed something to cool down. Advice From an Objective Foreigner: ‘Red Power’ is not a good name for an ice-cream when your country is still recovering from the dark days of Communist rule. Especially if you’re going to be selling them right next to the Berlin Wall Museum. 






Then it was back to Alcatraz for some Sexy Shower Time to get ready for Kaitlyn’s Sexy Birthday Celebrations. We began the evening with a few games of Sexy Pong in the park with a few beverages, followed by another smashing meal of Sexy Viet. Then came some more Sexy beverages (which resulted in another Sexy Photoshoot) at Ricky’s in preparation for some Sexy Berlin Partying. However, as Sexy as our whole evening was, undoubtedly the Sexiest element was Kaitlyn’s Birthday cake. It’s virtually impossible to get your bake on when you’re backpacking, but even if I could have, why would Kaitlyn have wanted me to make her my cupcakes, when I “made” her a SEXY SUPER DICKMANN’S CAKE WITH CANDLES? One box of (nine) Super Dicks, with candles lovingly inserted into each. At this point we still weren’t sure exactly what a Super Dickmann was. When I went to purchase them, I discovered that, as well as the actual Super Dickmann’s, there was also a generic, Weezer brand. But these weren’t called Super Dickmann’s, and given that it was her Birthday, I thought I better splurge on the expensive option. Clearly, I made the right choice because they were amazing. I think they were supposed to be marshmallow, but they were essentially a wafer, topped with meringue mixture, coated in chocolate. And boy were they Sexy. Even unintentionally - you kind of can’t eat them without being suggestive.






But as Sexy as the Super Dickmann’s cake was, the Sexy kept coming. As hard as this might be to believe, Berlin’s nightlife is even better than Hobart’s. I know, right?! We partied Sexy, well and hard that night, eventually ending up at a place called Club Devisionaere. With our ridiculous OH&S rules in Australia, I can’t imagine there ever being an outdoor club set right on a canal, where you can literally sit drinking beers at 2.00am with your feet dangling in the water, while people around you liberally smoke weed. But everything goes in Berlin – so long as it’s Sexy. And it was here that I saw what is perhaps the Sexiest thing ever – and this time I am being sarcastic. Not long after arriving at the club, we were being Sexy on the DF, when this older woman came up to us and kind of started trying to dance with us. She was a very butch older woman, but what was more striking than her bulging muscles, was the way she glistened in the moonlight. Now, when I say “glistened”, I don’t mean the way my hair glistens after I use a Pantene Pro-V treatment masque, this woman appeared to be dripping with glistening beads of….something. Kaitlyn and I were so busy trying to ensure her glistening skin didn’t come into contact with our Sexy outfits, we failed to notice the way she

apparently kept looking back between the two of us like we were food that needed to be immediately devoured. Fortunately, Ricky did notice this, and was able to cut her off.


A little later on, I was desperate to regulate my kidneys. As is always the case, the line for the ladies was insane. But when you gotta go, you got go, so I joined the queue. At the tables directly next to the toilets, there was a group of people smoking a lot of pot. Kaitlyn and I were standing there getting passively high, and by the time we reached the doors to the bathroom, we were feeling quite zen. As we made our way deeper into the bathrooms, something in the distance caught my eye. As well as being really not at all sober, I wasn’t wearing my glasses, so I had no idea what I was looking at other than red. As I got closer, it became a little clearer, and it started to look like a steak. I asked Kaitlyn if it was, but she couldn’t tell either. But from where we were standing it looked very much like a piece of steak on a paper towel. The longer we stayed in the queue, the more weird stuff I started to see in that bathroom, until it didn’t really seem all that weird that there would be a steak on a paper towel next to the sink. Then I kind of forgot all about it, because my attention span is like high-school maths- limited when I’ve been drinking.


Eventually it was my turn, and then when I came out of the cubicle, I experienced the epitome of Sexy Berlin. Remember Glistening Grandma? Remember the steak on the paper towel? Turns out it wasn’t steak, it was several slices of prosciutto. And these slices of prosciutto were what was making Grandma glisten. She was standing there in front of the mirrors, literally rubbing these oily slices of meat all over her body. I don’t know if this is a common custom in Germany, but either it is, or everyone else was as wasted as she was, because Kaitlyn and I were the only people to give her even a second glance as she oiled herself up. And she wasn’t just rubbing it into her skin the way you rub in a moisturising lotion after showering, she was “seductively” (I think that’s what she was going for) massaging and caressing the oily meat juices into her skin, gyrating up against the sink. Eventually she hoisted her top up over her (really, REALLY transparent) bra and moved from her arms to her stomach, which apparently was in just as much in need of lubrication from pig lard as the rest of her body. If I wasn’t a vegetarian before that moment, I certainly would have been afterwards. Kaitlyn and I were staring at her, completely enraptured at this point, and she happened to look up and mistook our open-mouthed horror as open-mouthed excitement. She turned and started to make her way towards us, proffering us sheets of prosciutto, obviously hoping we’d start stripping and lubricating with her. I think the only time I have ever run that fast was when someone told me they were giving away free Magnums in the Elizabeth Street Mall.


And then I’m not really sure what happened. I know that I started to drink a lot more in the hopes of erasing Greasy Granny from my memory. That is probably how I ended up at Maccas at 5.30am. And it was incredibly exciting for me because Germany make VEGGIE BURGERS!!! So for the first time ever I was able to experience drunken McDonald’s. It was a real moment for me. I daresay, as I licked the final bits of Toblerone McFlurry from my spoon, it was even Sexy.






Next Stop: LONDON. A hostel to make Alcatraz look like the Hilton, Ricky’s Riot and Royal Tours, and is there such a thing as sexylondonevents.co.uk?

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Kynsperk Part Two: Králičí, Kamarádka and Karlovy Vary


Remember I said my Czech has fallen by the wayside in my old age? I realise I still know more than most people reading this, so I better give you some translations to the (ridiculously small amount of) words used here…although I think most of them are pretty obvious.
Ahoj – Hi/Bye
Vlak – Train
Alergický – Allergic
Pivo – Beer
Káva - Coffee
Králičí – Rabbit
Kamarádka - Friend
Hovno – Shit

Okay. So we left off with the traumatic departure from this world of Suzie and Ferdinand. Now, whilst a lack of appreciation for alcohol may be incomprehensible to my family, it’s comparably reasonable, even logical, to the concept of vegetarianism. And I am a vegetarian. In the past when we’ve visited, it has never really been a problem, as Dad has always been there and, as well as being a carnivore, on holiday he procures a tapeworm and becomes somewhat of a human garbage disposal– so when my plate has been piled up with four pigs-worth of pork schnitzel, a few stealthy under-the-table exchanges were all it took to rectify the situation. Without a compost bin to my left or right, it was going to be tricky. Now, I haven’t eaten meat for over ten years, and I wasn’t about to start with Susie and Ferdinand. But I knew simply saying I was vegetarian wasn’t going to cut it, so I decided the safest route to take would be to explain to my family that I am alergický to meat.

With some bleating, mooing, oinking, some histrionic gesticulations, and some rolling around on the ground clutching my throat in a somewhat melodramatic interpretation of anaphylaxis, I managed to convey that I am alergický, not just to Susie and Ferdi, but to all faunae. The reaction I received (to this information and not to my acting skills) is really quite hard to explain. Sympathy doesn’t even begin to cover it. When I was (mis)diagnosed with a tumour several years back, the expressions I received were downright joyous in comparison. The looks of horror and pity directed towards me were the sort usually reserved for news of a fatal accident, or Collingwood winning a Flag.

Once my alergie was explained, we also had to provide a reason as to why Kaitlyn could not eat S and F. I tried to tell everyone that, at home, Kaitlyn has a few pet králičís whom she dearly loves, so she cannot eat králičí …but given these people were rubbing the stomachs of their named bunnies literally moments before they landed on the barbie,
I don’t think this explanation resonated all that much. I ended up going for the ‘we don’t eat rabbits in Australia’ story. Yes, I know we weren’t in Australia at that point, but before you start emailing me with your "When In Rome" bullhovno, try and picture Ferdinand curled up in Kaitlyn’s lap, little ears twitching as she stroked his paw. Still keen to get your Roman on?





While we waited for the králičí and another third of Noah’s Ark to tenderise, it was time for gift-giving. My gift to the older family members was one third of my liver, but for the youngsters, I had actually brought gifts from Australia. For Jacob, I had an Australia beanie which he seemed to quite like – I just hope he has a summer palate which can wear fluro yellow. For Adelka and Lucka I had these uber cool little koala toys. Whilst I thought Mum and I had done a brilliant job selecting something very cute and age-appropriate, we made one fatal mistake when selecting these: buying one red and one blue. Within seconds of presentation, it was all-out combat.

At first I wasn’t sure what the problem was, but when Lucka snatched Adelka’s blue koala and went all Usain Bolt around the corner, I started to twig. Once child and toy marsupial were recovered and brought back, I did my best to try and diffuse the situation. However, more and more hovno hit the fan. Despite Kaitlyn and me professing our Christian-Bale-level love for the colour red, both girls were still determined to claim possession of the blue koala. At this point, Czech/English dictionaries even appeared to assist in ascertaining which koala belonged to which girl. I’m still not sure exactly what the aversion to the red koala was: perhaps both of them love blue, perhaps Lucka merely wanted what her older sister had, or maybe it’s sub-conscious antagonism towards the colour brought-on by painful memories of the Communist-era. What I do know is that it took only two children, one child-sized adult, and two plush toys from Paddy’s Market to incite World War Three.

Once the tears were dried and the blood mopped, it was time to eat. I was more than satisfied with bread and the selection of salads, but I kept looking up and catching people staring at me with sympathy eyes – especially kamarádka extraordinaire, BLF, who was able to shovel gigantic portions of food into her mouth without looking away from me. A few times she even tried to ask me things mid-chew – Yo! If I can hardly understand you when your mouth is empty, I’m sure as hell not going to understand you when you have Susie flying out of your mouth into my eye.

Poor Kaitlyn also got stuck eating pork which she doesn’t usually eat. Although, I guess when your other option is Peter Králičí, you’d probably choose Porky as well. Whilst Kaitlyn was taking one for the Meat-Eating Team, I was taking several for Team Cirrhosis – and I really was spoilt for choice: there was beer, red wine, white wine, sparkling wine, Czech Water. Just regular, basic, straight-from-a-spring, hydrating water would have been nice, but there was a strong correlation between my drinking and my Czech improving, so I stuck with it.

Fortunately, everyone was still exhausted from the wedding the day before and was keen to retire early. We said goodbye to the various people departing, including BLF, and made our way upstairs to bed. After getting into our PJs I went to go and brush my teeth and was assaulted with the vision of BLF in her underwear. Turns out she was also staying over. I thought the nastiest piece of awkward conversation the two of us would have would have been when she was spitting Miffy into my eye…but it was definitely nastier when the crazy gesticulations were done semi-naked, only translucent scraps of underwear reigning in generous body parts.

Despite the ridiculous heat, we were so tired we managed to drift off really quickly. And then a few hours later we woke up to the most epic thunderstorm. It was bright, loud but, most significantly, wet – even in our room, as a window had been opened. Turns out Czech windows are as foreign to me as vegetarianism is to the Czech. It was IMPOSSIBLE to shut – and not just because it was high - I think Houdini would have struggled. Who didn’t struggle was BLF, who must have heard our attempts, waddled in, and stretched her glorious semi-naked body up to secure it for us. Half of me was grateful, and the other half was left thinking being soaked and/or struck by lightning wouldn’t have been too bad.

A few hours later, the rain cleared and the lightning had well and truly stopped…which was why I found it odd there were still very loud, consistent rumbles of thunder. It wasn’t until the morning when I woke up and left the room, that I realised it wasn’t thunder, but BLF snoring. Whilst she might not be the smallest person I have ever seen, I have no idea how something her size is capable of making noise that loud. You know when men come home blind drunk from the pub and pass out on their backs? Yeah, well that’s melodious, light-breathing compared to the racket she produced. I crept downstairs to have a shower and wash the sweat and trauma off my body. When I emerged from the bathroom, I was met with the aroma of fresh bread – my second favourite scent after Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue. When I walked into the kitchen, the table was COVERED with food. There were three different types of bread, about eight different types of cheese, enough salami and ham to make a dress out of (not for me, but for a real-sized person), fruit, jam, butter, chocolate spread….and then Big Liba brought over an industrial-sized fry-pan of scrambled eggs. Kaitlyn joined me soon after, and right behind her was BLF who somehow managed to smell the food through her congested and occupied nostrils.


Now, those of you who know me are aware of the obscene amount of food I eat on a daily basis. I haven’t slowed down in Europe, and that morning I ate two bread rolls filled with egg and cheese, two slices of bread, one with chocolate spread, the other with cheese and jam, one cup of tea, two cups of coffee, and a little cake which appeared out of thin air. Kaitlyn, whilst not as gluttonous as me, also ate a considerable amount of food. After we’d finished, Big Liba and BLF stopped mid-shovel to stare at as. ‘Were we done?’ Yes, we were. ‘But your train doesn’t leave for an hour’. Correct, but it is my stomach dictating this meal’s completion, not the Czech rail system. And in a moment so very reminiscent of every meal-time growing up with my grandma, I started to get the lecture about being small and eating more. Even in a different language, I know what was being said: girls these days, too thin, anorexia, bulimia, infertility, you need to live through a war to appreciate food. I do appreciate food…I just happen to appreciate it more when it’s in my stomach and I’m not looking at it in a chunky, liquid form floating in a toilet bowl.






That day we were going to Karlovy Vary, the most famous of the spa towns in the Czech Republic and about 30 minutes by vlak from Kynšperk. Of course, the rain from the previous night had not abated, and it was still bucketing down outside. Luckily for us there were umbrellas we could borrow – lucky in that they protected us from the rain, but also provided us with weapons in case we met Wheelin’ Jack on our walk to the vlak station. Fortunately, the latter didn’t happen, but unfortunately it poured for most of the day in Karlovy Vary. But in short bursts we were able to walk around and see most of the major sights. Kaitlyn was able to try the crazy Czech spa water, which is purported to have some phenomenal health benefits, but tastes like a cross between rotting eggs and copper. 








Initially, our next destination was going to be Poland, but that afternoon whilst bumming the free Macca’s wifi, we decided that we might hit up Berlin instead. So we made our way back to the vlak station to book our tickets. That in itself was quite the production, as the language barrier again made things quite arduous. I still have enough Czech to be able to ask for two tickets to Berlin, but when the details start becoming more specific, I get confused…and there appeared to be a lot of specifics we needed to clear up before buying the tickets: time, first class or second class, smoking or non-smoking, proximity to the food cart, proximity to the WC, colour of the seats, colour of the walls. We could have walked to Berlin in the time it took to sort it all out. I could have waddled with my backpack faster.






Even though the ticket-buying process took long enough that my chances of ever having children were halved, we still had a bit of time to wait until our vlak home. Now, I’m usually firmly against vlak station toilets:however, one too many kavas at McDonald’s meant that my bladder was putting my convictions to the test…and in the end my organ won. Now, between working in a cinema, 5.30am dashes at Club Surreal, three trips to Bali, Falls Festivals, Flinders Street Station at 2.00am on a Sunday morning, and a few petrol stations, I’ve seen my fair share of disgusting, sickening toilets in my time. None can hold a candle to the one I begrudgingly used that day. To describe it as sordid would be like describing

Isaac Brock as a genius – a criminal understatement. Just by walking through the door I caught something. The place was covered in hovno, and I don’t mean that in the generic sense, I am referring to literal hovno – excrement. I also whinge about my thighs, but for once in my life I was extremely grateful that I have legs like a full-back, as they came in very handy for the hover over the bowl; I do this in 99% of public toilets, but that day I was doing it whilst simultaneously keeping the lock-free door shut, holding my bag (as I refused to let it come in to contact with any surface around me), and mentally fighting off HIV. I was also glad for the tissues I was carrying in my bag as I have no doubt the paper there was highly contaminated with countless airborne diseases. I am severely allergic to the hand sanitiser I brought with me, but that day I bathed every exposed piece of dermis with it once I left that room. Hives are unattractive, but I’d take the itching of those over the itching of scabies any day.


We arrived home in Kyšnperk to a feast - a feast of mostly vegetarian food. I’m not sure if that was because of me, or because the night before our motley crew ate the country out of livestock. Given the amount of food, I assumed that we would again be joined by a plethora of shirtless pivo-swigging men and a significant proportion of the town. However, that night was just Kaitlyn, Big Liba, Big Mirek and our favourite kamarádka, BLF, who still hadn’t managed to find her way home. At dinner, Kaitlyn was again offered every single alcoholic beverage imaginable, politely declining each and every one. We thought at that point she was home free.

After dinner, Big Mirek, sporting his customary uniform of tight fluro-orange t-shirt, and even tighter fluro-orange shorts, suggested we Skype Australia. I eventually explained to him that it was 3.00am in Australia, but that didn’t seem to be an issue whatsoever. Fortunately there was no one online, so that idea ended as soon as it began. What surprised me was that his Internet connection was good – fast, even! The day before Kaitlyn and I had spent about half an hour explaining that we were going to Poland next and, as that had been so complicated, we decided it would be far easier to continue with that story than to even attempt to inform them that we were instead going to Berlin. It made us feel pretty bad when, for the next hour, we poured over a map of Poland outlining our route, looking at sights on Google Earth, and seeing all of the photos of their trips to Poland - especially as Big

Mirek was rocking the constrictive fluro-orange combo in every second snap. By this stage we were pretty keen to go to bed, but as we were waiting for the right moment to say goodnight, Big Liba disappeared only to reappear seconds later with a bottle of advocaat, and five glasses. This time they didn’t even ask Kaitlyn, they just poured her one. They were only small, shot-size glasses, and even Kaitlyn can handle a little nightcap…at least when it’s not 80% alcohol. This wasn’t your typical, 20% advocaat liqueur – this burnt the lining of my oesophagus, practically melting a hole through it. As Kaitlyn and I were looking at each other trying to figure out how quickly we could force it down, Big Mirek put a movie on – specifically a French, slap-stick comedy from the 1960’s with atrocious Czech dubbing. It was significantly more painful than the swallowing of the advocaat. Years of working in hospitality and customer service has led me to perfect the fake laugh – I’m at Oscar level when it comes to feigning amusement. But it was hard, freaking work to believably feign amusement at this movie. Having said that, what made it a lot easier was my never-ending glass of advoccat. Like a Wonka-devised product, every time I neared the bottom of my glass, it miraculously filled right back up. Kaitlyn soon realised that the way to counter this was to drink very, very slowly. So whilst her throat was a lot less raw than mine, she enjoyed the movie a lot less than I did. The average length of feature films nowadays is 120 minutes. From this movie, I can only assume the average length of French films in the 1960’s was 480 minutes. I turned grey waiting for that movie to finish. 








Eventually it did, and eventually we went to bed. And by "we" I mean Big Mirek and Liba, Kaitlyn, myself and BLF who, in a last parting gesture of kamarádkaship, was determined to make sure I saw her splendid semi-naked form one last time. She was successful. My retinas still hurt.




Next time: We make it to Germany and the aptly named Alcatraz Hostel, discover the wonder that is Felias beginning a new obsession with terrible taxidermy, jump aboard the sexyberlinevents bandwagon, and learn cured ham is apparently not just for eating.